Interfacing - A Necessary Topic

The Back Story.

While browsing social media I came across a post with an image of a jersey knit garment that obviously had issues with the neckline. The neckline looked to have a bubble texture instead of what should have been a nice smooth finish. The question asked was referencing the interfacing used to add stability to the beautiful folded neckline. Obviously something went terribly wrong.

Was it the application?

Was it the correct interfacing?

How was the interfacing prepared and applied? 

So many questions...

This got me thinking about our customers and our batik fabric. I had so many questions of my own. 

Do our customers know which interfacing to use with each of our substrates?

Do they know that the interfacing should be washed before it's applied? 

Do they use fusible or sew-in interfacing?

So many questions to answer.  So let's get to it!

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Choosing the Right Interfacing for Garment Sewing with Our Batik Fabrics

When working with batik fabrics for garment sewing, choosing the right interfacing can make all the difference in achieving a polished, professional look. Our collection includes a variety of batik fabrics: Batik Rayon, Batik Cotton Jersey Knit, Batik Linen, Batik Cotton, and Batik Canvas. Each fabric has its own unique qualities, and pairing it with the appropriate interfacing ensures your projects maintain their structure and beauty without compromising the luxurious feel of the fabric. Here's a guide to help you make the best choice for your next project.

45" Batik Rayon

Batik rayon is a lightweight, breathable fabric with a beautiful drape, making it ideal for flowy garments like dresses, blouses, and skirts. However, its delicate nature requires an interfacing that supports without adding unnecessary bulk.

• Recommended Interfacing: Lightweight fusible interfacing with a soft hand. Look for options like feather-weight or lightweight woven fusible interfacing to maintain the fabric's natural drape.  We recommend Envy Silk by Bosal. It is 20" wide and available by the yard on our website. It's available in both white and black.
  

• Tips: Always test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric first. Use a medium to low heat setting on your iron with a pressing cloth to avoid damaging the rayon. 

69" Batik Cotton Jersey Knit

Our Batik Cotton Jersey Knit is stretchy and comfortable, perfect for t-shirts, casual dresses, and loungewear. Even though our Jersey Knit stretches only 20% or so, it needs an interfacing that stretches along with it. Remember, stability shouldn't take away from stretch. 

• Recommended Interfacing: Knit fusible interfacing or tricot interfacing. These are specifically designed for stretch fabrics and won’t compromise the fabric’s flexibility. We recommend French Fuse Textured Interfacing. It is 20" wide and available by the yard on our website. Colors available are white and black. 

• Tips: When applying fusible interfacing, let the fabric and interfacing cool completely before handling to set the bond. Match the grainline of the interfacing to the grainline suggested by the pattern piece. Always match the stretch of the fabric. 

54" Batik Linen

Batik linen is crisp, breathable, and slightly textured, making it a favorite for summer garments like button-up shirts, trousers, and skirts. Linen benefits from interfacing that enhances its structure without overwhelming its natural texture.

• Recommended Interfacing: Medium-weight woven fusible interfacing or sew-in interfacing for areas requiring additional structure, like collars and cuffs. We recommend and work with Envy Silk (referenced above) for featherweight support, or Pellon's Lightweight 906F which adds additional stability. 

• Tips: Prewash both the fabric and interfacing to avoid shrinkage issues. Test fusible interfacing first, as some linens may show a slight sheen after fusing.

112" Batik Cotton

Batik cotton is versatile and easy to sew, ideal for everything from casual shirts to structured dresses. Our cotton fabric works well with a variety of interfacings depending on the project.

• Recommended Interfacing: Lightweight to medium-weight fusible interfacing. For tailored garments, consider using a heavier interfacing to provide more structure. Pellon's Lightweight 906F adds lightweight stability to front facings, cuffs, and collars. If your garment needs added stability a more stable interfacing is Pellon 568. 
  
  For bag making, a heavier fusible interfacing such as Pellon SF101 - Shape Flex, will add extra stability when needed. Pockets, side panels, and main bag construction all benefit from the added stability of Shape Flex.   

• Tips: Match the weight of the interfacing to the specific needs of your project. Always pre-wash and test before application to ensure compatibility.

57" Batik Canvas

Our Batik Canvas is sturdy and durable, perfect for structured garments like jackets and jeans or for accessories such as bags. Our Batik Canvas is available in two weights; 5.0 oz light weight, and 8.6 oz heavier weight for a more durable sewing solution. This heavier fabric requires a robust interfacing to complement its firmness.

• Recommended Interfacing: Heavyweight fusible interfacing or sew-in interfacing for areas requiring extra support. For softer structure, opt for medium-weight interfacing.

There are times when the heavier 8.6 oz Batik Canvas does not need the extra stability of an interfacing. I've sewn jackets and bags that simply didn't need the extra stabilizer. Test our canvas with your interfacing of choice to see if it's truly necessary. If it is, we definitely recommend Pellon's SF101 - Shape Flex. 

• Tips: Use a steam iron and press firmly when applying interfacing. Consider using a clapper for secure fusible. Again, make sure to pre-wash your interfacing of choice, even the fusible kind!

General Tips for Interfacing our Batik Fabrics

1. Prewash Fabrics and Interfacing: Batik fabrics are hand-dyed and may shrink during the first wash. Prewashing ensures your final garment, handbag, or home decor project retains its intended size and shape. Always pre-wash your interfacing. It may seem odd, but in most cases a woven interfacing will shrink, even slightly. Let's avoid those dreaded puckers and bubbles. Our finished garments are worth every simple preparation step, don't ya think!

2. Test First: Always fuse or sew interfacing onto a scrap piece of fabric before working on your garment. This helps you evaluate compatibility and adjust heat settings.

3. Mind the Grain: Align the grain of the interfacing with the grain of the fabric for the best results, especially with woven interfacings.

4. Press, Don’t Iron: Use a pressing motion rather than sliding the iron to avoid distorting the fabric.

5. Layout Considerations:  If you have find yourself with sufficient fabric, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of your fabric - then place and cutout your pattern piece from the fused fabric. If you're a fabric saver like I am, cut out your interfacing first, fuse it to the wrong side of your main fabric, follow the outline of the interfacing to cut out your pattern piece. 

By choosing the right interfacing, you can enhance the structure and durability of your garment while maintaining the stunning qualities of our batik fabrics. Whether you’re sewing a breezy rayon blouse or a structured canvas jacket, the right pairing will elevate your project to the next level. Happy sewing!

Until next time...

Keep Sewing, Smiling, and Sharing

Diane